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October 18th, 2025 - The Spritz and Carbonara Boom That’s Devouring Italy

  • ihsiftikar
  • Oct 18
  • 3 min read
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The streets of Palermo overflow with energy, color, and the irresistible aroma of Italian cuisine. Rows of red-and-green checkered tables stretch endlessly down Via Maqueda, packed with plates of arancine rice balls, glistening cannoli, and glowing glasses of Aperol spritz. Tourists from around the world fill every seat, snapping photos and toasting to the good life in Italy’s sun-soaked south. “This stretch here is magnificent — bang! Just restaurant after restaurant,” said Mark Smith, an Australian tourist marveling at the scene.

But the city’s mayor, Roberto Lagalla, isn’t celebrating. He’s concerned that Palermo’s historic core has become more of a theme park than a living city. In a move that shocked many, Lagalla banned the opening of new restaurants in Via Maqueda and nearby streets, saying even Italy’s food capital had reached its breaking point. “Too much sugar spoils the coffee,” he said. His goal isn’t to kill the city’s spirit but to restore balance — ensuring that Palermo remains a home for residents, not just a playground for visitors.

Italy’s food culture, though globally beloved, is at the center of a growing national debate. Across major cities — Florence, Rome, Bologna, and Turin — officials are introducing similar restrictions to prevent their centers from being overrun by trattorias and souvenir-style eateries. Critics argue that “foodification” is crowding out local shops, artisans, and daily life, replacing authenticity with endless displays of pasta made for social media rather than for tradition.

Still, tourism remains vital to Italy’s economy, accounting for 13 percent of the nation’s total output. In Palermo alone, the number of restaurants has doubled in the last decade as visitors surged, particularly after UNESCO recognized the city’s Arab-Norman architecture. For many locals, tourism has brought prosperity and revived neighborhoods once marked by crime and neglect. “The city center is better than it was before,” said Alessandro Anello, Palermo’s tourism official. He noted that cafés and restaurants, though ubiquitous, have helped rebuild pride and safety in areas long forgotten.

Yet for some residents, the transformation feels bittersweet. “It’s an amusement park, not a city,” said social worker Karen Basile, who worries that traditional life is being priced out. Markets that once sold produce and fish now cater almost entirely to tourists with deep-fried snacks and desserts. Longtime vendors, like 67-year-old fruit seller Paolo Di Carlo, say they’ve lost their local customers. “We lost all our customers,” he said. “Now it’s all fast food here.”

Even as the debate continues, officials acknowledge that tourism has provided lifelines to thousands of Sicilians. Prime Minister Giorgia Meloni has called tourism an “extraordinary generator of wealth and well-being,” emphasizing that it remains key to Italy’s post-pandemic recovery. Palermo’s administration plans to balance tourism with modernization — investing in digital infrastructure and business development while limiting new restaurant licenses to preserve diversity in city life.

For now, though, the laughter, music, and scent of Sicilian cooking still fill the air. On a recent evening, a young visitor from Slovenia sipped his spritz and smiled. “Usually I drink beer,” he said, “but since I am in Sicily, I should take an Aperol spritz.” His sentiment captured both the charm and the challenge of modern Italy — a nation striving to keep its traditions alive even as the world eagerly devours them.



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Example: He mused on the possibility of pursuing a master's degree.


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